Folklore takes Chopova Lowena to the Cornish seaside for Spring/Summer 2024, where designers Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons are celebrating Helston's Flora Day festival. Marking the warm and welcome onslaught of summer, the festival is held annually on the eighth of May. Processionals dance through the town, retelling a Medieval story of angels and devils, peace and war, sea and shore, and mermaids and maidens, culminating in the singing of an age-old song the Hal-an-Tow. Women wear leaf-and-bush hats and children sport white eyelet finery with lilies of the valley pinned to their chests—rightside up for boys and upside down for girls.

In Chopova's native Bulgarian, lily of the valley is called Momina Salza—translating to "girl's tear." Girl-hood, a time for tearing up and tearing through the world, a lovely mess of ritual and riot. Hand-embroidered broderie anglaise white dresses with leather strappings couple the innocence of childhood with the armour of a warrior. Lucky charms—a bat, a key, a set of legs—offer protection on necklaces while boned bustiers and corsets embrace the sensual potential of adulthood. Ribbed knitwear ends in noisy metal charm trim and tees are printed with symbols of the festival: A fierce dragon, a sneaky demon, a blissful angel. We find ourselves in the trappings of tradition.

And is there a more well-established modern tradition than falling for a skater boy? British folklore clashes with Chopova and Lowena-Irons's teenaged memories of young love. Layered graphic tees, baggy board shorts, and plaid pyjama pants represent crushes—the boy you love or the boy you want to be. Styles from teen life are reimagines for a girl zipping into adulthood: low-slung bubble skirts, rakish skirt suits, and fleece zip-ups ruffled with hand-crocheted frills.

For the first time, Chopova Lowena introduce handbags and footwear. Made in Italy, the bags are constructed to assist the wearer throughout the day with custom notebooks, pens, and combs, while the shoes stomp with a fierce prettiness. Ugg is a natural collaborator for Spring/Summer 2024, whose shoes act as a canvas for the fancifulness of Flora Day to be brought to life.