Autumn/Winter 2022

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Chopova Lowena Autumn/Winter 2022

"Kiss the Hare's Foot"

AW22 is titled "Kiss the Hare's Foot." This medieval phrase means to miss dinner, but savour the leftovers. This motto serves as a guide to the season's repurposing, the principle by which the collection was built. Reviving scraps as it may, old gnome figurines, vintage bed sheets, plush wall decor and in most textiles the fibres themselves have been recycled.

This season was directly inspired by the smash-up of medieval imagery and ice hockey. Garments display dark-aged detailing in the form of tying, ruching and lacing, refreshed with hockey influenced graphics, hardware and chain detailing. While tension navigates through a mix of historic and sporting references, there is a radiating symbiosis between the structured medieval silhouettes and notes of hardened hockey gear.

Medieval references weave historic allusions into modernised silhouettes. Sturdy chains are laced on rich velvet and delicate taffeta dresses, leather skirt belts and bags. Embossed puffers in long and short styles reference the padded protective gear and are quilted in graphic stitched motifs. The range of recycled fibre fleece is expand to include vests and long rabbit ear hoods/shawls which mimic medieval head coverings. Narrative tapestry vests are contrasted by shirting in light deadstock cotton and paired with recycled fibre fil coupé skirts in floral motifs.

Continuing the collaboration with local artisans resulted in this season's beaded crochet vests, le and arm warmers and shawls. Knitwear is new for AW22 and comes in a variety of cardigans and skirts, in faux mohair and cotton, in motifs by Bulgarian traditional socks and tartans.

The AW22 offering is further expanded with velvet and taffeta suiting which is a new category. Structured jackets are paired with pleated and A-line mini skirts to create mini skirt suits. They are accented with laced-on charm necklaces, charm bracelets and faux belt detailing.